Namche Bazar to Dingboche

On a rest day in Dingboche, so time for another update.

15/5/2012 Namche Bazar to Deboche

This was a day of 2 halves!

Part 1

We were on the trail just after 7:00 for the short walk up the hill out of Namche to the Everest/Sherpa museum. The museum contain photos and articles of the many Everest expeditions and the walls were plastered with pictures of the many Sherpa summiteers, including one of Kenton Cool, 10 times Everest summiteer.

We left the museum around 7:40 on the relatively easy trail, wide with only a few ups. The path skirted around the hillside until we reached Kyangjuma, where we took a quick stop. From here the path descended down to the river, it was uneven and steep in places which killed my knees as there was no way to get into any rhythm. On reaching the river we crossed a suspension bridge and entered the tiny village of Phunki Tenga, it was 10:30. Too early for lunch, but we stopped for 30 mins for snacks and a rest before the next part of the trek.

Part 2

Leaving Phunki Tenga the path was all uphill, around 600m of climbing to Tengboche. I found the path hard going, steep switchbacks made more difficult by the yak trains carrying large loads. My heart was beating so fast that I thought it was going to jump out of my chest. Nearing the top I spotted the prayer flags and stupa for the monastery. It had taken me 1.5 hours to walk this small section. Most Sherpa take only 40mins to 1 hour.

We were originally meant to stay the night here, but there are only 3 lodges which were all full. Luckily Gelu who was a day ahead of us booked us a room in Deboche, 15 mins further down the trail. We arrived at 12:30 (the walk took 5 hours with a 30 min rest), I had some lunch then went to my room for a like down to rest my weary legs.

As we head higher the air is getting drier and colder. My sleeping bag is doing a great job of keeping me warm at night.

16/10/2012 Deboche to Pangboche

Very short day today, so we got up late and had a leisurely breakfast.

We set off for the 50min walk up to Pangboche, after about 20 mins we crossed the river, where the path climbed into Pangboche, arriving around 9:30. Today was a scheduled rest day, but doing this short walk would reduce the the climb the following day to Dingboche. During the walk Pasang had received some bad news. One of his guiding friends had died in a climbing accident on Pisang Peak the previous day. We walked in silence to allow Pasang to be with his thoughts. I was glad it was a short day.

During the afternoon the wind picked up and blown the clouds in over the valley, obscuring the views of Ama Dablam. This also reduced the temperature significantly time to put on the down jacket for the first time.

In the evening, I sat around the heater in the dining room, which was burning dried yak dung and chatted to Dawa, a teacher at the school in Namche. He was on his way up to the Italian Research Pyramid to do some work.

Early bed, nice to get into my sleeping bag and keep warm.

17/10/2012 Pangboche to Dingboche

The time spent trekking each day is getting quite short each day, mainly to allow me to acclimatise properly and because we have a few days spare due to a change in itinerary. Its nice to take it at a relaxed pace and enjoy the views.

After a late breakfast we head out on the trail from Pangboche (3750m), the path winds its way around the hill above the Imja Khola River, always in an upwards direction, only steepening at Syomore (4010m). For the next 12 days I will be living above 4000m above sea level, which I find quite amazing. I'm not sure what its going to do to my body.

After Syomore, the trail flattens out into a wide valley and we make good progress. The path drops down to the river then we tackle the final uphill of the day to Dingboche which takes around 40 mins. The climb was not as steep as I thought.

Dingboche comes into view and sits in a wide valley, that is over shadowed by Ama Dablam on the right and at the head of the valley I can see the 8000m peaks of Lhotse & Lhotse Shar, as well as the popular trekking peak - Island Peak.

We arrive at 10:30 so another short day only 2.5 hours of trekking. I wandered around the village, but soon the clouds roll in and the temperature drops, so back to the tea house to warm up and some lunch.

In the evening I teach Pasang & Dawa how to play Gin and Brag (card games). After dinner I treat myself to apple pie then it's off to bed.

18/10/2012 Dingboche Rest Day

Late start, up at 7:00 then breakfast. After breakfast we walk with Dawa up the hill behind the village. He is off to Loboche.

This is also a good view point to take photos of the valley and I can add another 8000m peak to my tick list - Makalu. I have now seen 6 of the 8, 8000m peaks in Nepal. I will only see one more Cho Oyu, as Kanchenjunga is too far east in the country. Saying that I have seen Shisapangma which is in Tibet!

The valley is quite barren and dusty, at this altitude there are no trees, only small juniper bushes.

After tomorrow, I have some bigger trekking days as we head over 5000m and up to Everest Base Camp and over the high passes of Cho La to Gokyo. I'm feeling in good shape, acclimatising well and enjoying being in Nepal and the big mountains. I have some amazing memories and lots of photos that don't do the landscape justice, it's just stunning with amazing people.

Note: Sorry for the lack of pictures, but they take too long to upload on the slow and expensive internet connection. I will try and add some when I'm back in KTM.

 

Kathmandu to Namche Bazar

So I've been in the Khumbu region for a few days now and have Internet access, so I thought I'd post an update.

12/10/2012 KTM to Lukla

The plan was to get the 9:20 flight from Kathmandu to Lukla and then walk to Phakding. Unfortunately, when I looked out of my hotel window it was cloudy so I was expecting some delays.

On arrival at the domestic terminal, I entered the chaos, there were fellow trekkers and locals sitting around on the floor amongst sacks of rice, garlic and onions, it was obvious that not many flights had made it out.

Pasang and I loitered around the check in desk waiting for our time to check in. When the desk opened all mayhem broke out. There was no queuing system, instead everyone thrust their booking forms in the faces of the staff. By this time the flights were already running 1.5 hours behind schedule.

We finally got checked in at 11:00 and my rucksack was whisked off, then cleared security into departures. My flight was now due out at 12:00 so only 2.5 hours late.

Midday came and went and we were told 13:00 then 14:00, eventually at 16:00 we were on the bus to the plane. We boarded the tiny twin otter and I had the seat immediately behind the co-pilot. I stuffed some cotton wool into my ears to dull the noise of the engines.

We still had to wait for permission to take off and at 16:30 we were on our way and the little plane roared down the runway and then we were airborne. Due to the weather I braced myself for a bumpy journey, but the pilot steered us skilfully around the clouds and I sat back and enjoyed the view. After about 35 mins we started to descend and after a sharp left turn, I could see the miniature runway of Lukla. The ground was approaching fast, then all of a sudden we we down on the ground. It was one of the smoothest flights and landings I've experienced after all the horror stories I have heard.

We later found out that this was the last flight of the day, we collected my rucksack which I hadn't seen all day then off to find a guest house as it was too late to start trekking as it would be getting dark soon.

The day was full of waiting around and no trekking, but on the positive side I was in the Khumbu and not in KTM.

13/10/2012 Lukla to Namche Bazar

I was woken at 6:30 by the hum of airplanes landing and taking off from the airport, so went downstairs to have breakfast and then were we're on the trail at 7:30.

The path was easy going mainly downhill and surprisingly quiet, I was expecting loads of trekkers. After 1 hour 40 minutes we walked through Phakding, Pasang was amazed as this normally takes 3 hours, we were not going fast but at a steady pace. We had a quick tea break then we crossed the Dudh Khosi River and started the steady climb up to Monjo. Arriving at 11:00.

We decided to have lunch for an hour. This was meant to be our nights stop, but Pasang thought we could make Namche Bazar in 2-3 hours. We went for it!

We entered the Sagarmatha National Park and followed the river , crossing it a few times until we reached the confluence of 2 rivers where we crossed a really high suspension bridge. From here the trail steepened significantly and I was down to a snails pace. After a gruelling 2.5 hours of uphill we entered Namche. I saw a familiar face, it was Gelu from my Annapurna trek who had come to meet us and walk us to the lodge. We arrived at 14:30, so I had been on the go for 7 hours including a 1 hour rest stop. Not bad going considering most trekking itineraries take 2 days to get this far! I think I'm turning part Sherpa. To be honest I was knackered and wanted to go to sleep.

The nights are getting chilly at this altitude (3440m) and I glad of my sleeping bag.

14/10/2012 Namche Bazar (Rest Day)

Even though its a rest day, I was up at 6:30. We were going for a short walk after breakfast up to the Everest View Hotel, some 400m above Namche. The path was steep going at first, until we reached the tiny airstrip at Syangboche (smaller than Lukla if that's possible).

Everest, Lhotse & Lhotse Shar

As we rounded the corner I was greeted with the most spectacular clear views of Everest, Lhotse, Lhotse Shar, Ama Dablam & Nuptse.

We went to the hotel for a pot of tea and to take some photos, then made our way to the villages of Khumjung and Khunde, this is where there is a small hospital that Sir Edmund Hillary helped establish.

It was lunch time and a walcome rest stop, then it was back down to Namche via some evil steps, my knees were shot, and we had been walking for 3.5 hours, some rest day eh!

Ama Dablam

 

Between Treks

I thought I'd write a quick update on what I've been up to between my two treks.

6/10/2012 Pokhara to Kathmandu

First off I travelled back from Pokhara on the tourist bus this took 8 dusty hours on quite a bumpy road. This was probably the most dangerous part of this trek. The main difference between a tourist bus and a local bus is that everyone gets an allocated seat and the bus goes a little bit slower, unlike a local bus where there are 3 times more people than seats and drive at breakneck speeds, overtaking on blind corners! The flight from Pokhara to Kathmandu takes 35 minutes.....why didn't I do that?

Kathmandu is heaving as its now the main trekking season, I haven't missed the traffic, pollution and street hustlers. Can't wait to get back out on the trails.

7/10/2012 Kathmandu & Chores

Once back in KTM, I set about getting some laundry done ready for the next trek. I sent larger items to the hotel laundry and I cleaned some of the smaller ones myself in the bath, judging by the colour of the water they really needed a clean. My bathroom looked like a Chinese laundry.

Following this it was my turn to get clean and tidy again. Had a great hot shower, I must have drained the hotel of hot water, then it was onto the big one - a shave.

This was a mammoth task in itself after not shaving for 17 days, it took over an hour and 3 razor blades, but it was worth the effort to feel really clean again. Maybe after the next trek I'll find a barbers to do the job.

8/10/2012 Patan Sightseeing

Mahabouddha Temple

The following day it was off to Patan around 5km south of central Kathmandu. This is one of the 3 medieval cities in the valley. We (me and my guide) walked around the Royal palace, now a museum containing some of the finest carvings, sculptors & statues of various Hindu and Buddhist gods and their various forms (I think this will be my specialist subject in the next pub quiz). From here it was around more spectacular temples, I went to the Buddhist Golden Temple and the Mahabouddha Temple, which is also known as the Temple of a Thousand Buddhas. Patan's streets are lined with many workshops making and selling high quality brass sculptors of Buddha, bells and Hindu deities. After 3.5 hours wandering around, it was back to the hotel for a relax and some food.

9/10/2012 Bhaktapur & Nagarkot

Guardians

A late start, to miss the most of the traffic. We head out of the city for a night, stopping at the hilltop village of Nagarkot, some 32km east of Kathmandu and at an elevation of 2175m. On the way we would visit the third and best preserved of the medieval cities in the Kathmandu valley of Bhaktapur. It is also the largest with 3 main squares. Like Patan and Kathmandu Durbar Squares there are some impressive Hindu temples, including the 5 tiered Nyatapola temple, the tallest in Nepal. The stairway up to the temple is lined with various guardians, at the bottom there are 2 wrestlers (Jayamel & Phattu), then elephants, next ram horned griffons and finally the 2 goddesses of Baghini & Singhini. The guardians at each level are supposed to be 10 times stronger than the level below.

From here we drove the remaining 16km up the twisty mountain road up to Nagarkot, this took an hour! The hotel I stopped in had bedrooms that all had views of the Himalaya. Unfortunately, it was cloudy when I arrived so there were no views for sunset, it started to rain so there was still hope for clear sky's in the morning for sunrise. That said its was great to be out of the city for a night and Nagarkot is a great place to relax.

10/10/2012 Nagarkot to Chengu Narayan Temple

So not having seen the sunset over the Langtang Himal, I set my alarm for 5:30 to see if the sky's would be clear. I peered out of the window and I was rewarded with sensational views. I quickly washed and dressed and made my way to be best viewing spot and snapped away at the mountains and sunrise. It was worth the early wake up call.

Chengu Narayan

After a light breakfast, we set out on a 13km hike to the Chengu Narayan Temple, a UNESCO world heritage site. The walking was easy and mostly downhill on well marked trails. We made our way through some tiny villages to reach Tharkot. From here it was a short 20 minute uphill walk to join the ridge. In the distance I could see the temple perched high on the hillside. In the background, Kathmandu sprawled into the distance.

The temple itself is in the pagoda style, dedicated to Vishnu and contains some fine carvings from the 4th to 9th centuries. After this visit it was back to the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu, to get things ready from my next trek and to do some shopping for presents.

11/10/2012 Kathmandu

The Garden of Dreams

Totally chilled day, nothing to do, so went to the Garden of Dreams just on the edge of Thamel. This is a lovely garden to spend a couple of hours away from the crowded, noisy streets to read, listen to my iPod and generally get away from it all.

As well as all the sightseeing, I've done quite a bit of eating since getting back from the Annapurna Circuit as I need the energy for my next trek in the Khumbu. Well that's my excuse anyway and I'm sticking to it!!!

If the weather is good, tomorrow I should fly into Lukla, reportedly the worlds most dangerous airport. A friend of mine said that Lukla stood for LUcKy LAnding (thanks Tim!) I'm not worried though, but I will let you know how I get on.

I'm hoping Internet access is a bit better in the Khumbu than on the Annapurna Circuit so I can keep you all updated on my progress.

Miss you all and I'll see you soon

Sonny